Theodore Roosevelt Guide: Best Hikes, When to Visit & Where to Stay

Theodore Roosevelt National Park in the badlands of western North Dakota preserves the landscape that transformed a grief-stricken young New York politician into the conservationist president who would protect more than 230 million acres of American land. Roosevelt first came to the Dakota Territory in 1883 to hunt bison, and the experience changed his life. He bought a cattle ranch, spent years working as a cowboy, and developed the deep connection to wild places that would later drive his conservation agenda. "I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota," he said. The park that bears his name protects 70,447 acres of the rugged, eroded badlands along the Little Missouri River -- a landscape of banded buttes, petrified forests, prairie grasslands, and winding coulees that looks much as it did when Roosevelt rode through it 140 years ago.

The park is divided into three units. The South Unit, accessible from the town of Medora, is the most visited and contains the 36-mile Scenic Loop Drive, the Maltese Cross Cabin (Roosevelt's first ranch house, painstakingly relocated to the visitor center), and the majority of the park's trails. The North Unit, about 70 miles north via US-85, is wilder and less developed, with a 14-mile scenic drive, a small campground, and superb backcountry hiking. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit, Roosevelt's main ranch site on the Little Missouri River, is the most remote and undeveloped -- there are no facilities, just the foundation stones of the ranch buildings and the landscape Roosevelt loved. The park supports herds of bison, wild horses (feral mustangs), elk, pronghorn, bighorn sheep, and one of the densest populations of prairie dogs in the national park system.

Best Hikes

Caprock Coulee Trail -- The most scenic loop in the South Unit, this 4.4-mile trail descends from the Scenic Loop Drive into a coulee (a dry gulch formed by erosion), passes through badlands formations banded in red, gray, and brown, crosses prairie grasslands, and climbs back through juniper breaks to the road. The elevation change is approximately 500 feet. Wildlife sightings are common -- bison, prairie dogs, and mule deer are frequently seen. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 2-3 hours.

Petrified Forest Loop -- A 10.3-mile loop in the South Unit that reaches some of the park's most impressive petrified stumps and logs. The trail crosses grasslands and badlands terrain with approximately 800 feet of elevation gain. The petrified trees, up to three feet in diameter, are remnants of forests that grew here 55 to 60 million years ago. This is a long day hike with limited shade and no water sources. Difficulty: strenuous (due to length and exposure). Allow 5-7 hours.

Wind Canyon Trail -- A short 0.3-mile round trip trail that climbs to an overlook above a wind-carved canyon and the Little Missouri River. The views are dramatic and the trail is quick, making it one of the most rewarding efforts in the park. The overlook is an excellent spot at sunset. Difficulty: easy. Allow 15-20 minutes.

Achenbach Trail (North Unit) -- The most challenging trail in the park, this 18-mile loop crosses the Little Missouri River twice (which may require wading waist-deep), ascends to the Achenbach Hills with panoramic badlands views, and traverses remote grasslands. The elevation gain is approximately 1,600 feet. River crossings can be hazardous during high water. Difficulty: strenuous. Allow 8-10 hours or plan an overnight backpacking trip.

Buckhorn Trail -- A 5.3-mile loop in the South Unit that combines portions of the Caprock Coulee Trail with ridgeline walking and prairie crossing. Views of the surrounding badlands and the distant buttes are excellent. Elevation gain is approximately 600 feet. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 3-4 hours.

Upper Paddock Creek Trail -- A 7.2-mile round trip out-and-back trail in the South Unit that follows Paddock Creek through grass-covered draws and past colorful badlands formations. The trail is relatively gentle, with about 400 feet of elevation change, and provides good opportunities to see bison and wild horses. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 3-5 hours.

When to Visit

May-June -- Late spring is the park's finest season. The grasslands are green, wildflowers bloom across the prairie, bison calves are born, and wildlife is highly active. Temperatures are pleasant (highs in the 60s to 80s), and the long days provide extended hiking time. Mosquitoes and ticks can be bothersome near water.

July-August -- Summer is warm (highs in the 80s and 90s, occasionally exceeding 100) and busy. Afternoon thunderstorms are common. The wild horse herds are reliably visible in the South Unit. Early morning is the best time for wildlife viewing and comfortable hiking. The park is at its busiest but never truly crowded by the standards of more famous parks.

September-October -- Fall is excellent. Temperatures cool, crowds thin, bison and elk enter their rutting seasons (September for bison, October for elk), and the cottonwoods along the Little Missouri River turn gold. The fall light on the badlands is superb.

November-April -- Winter is harsh in western North Dakota, with temperatures that can plunge below minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit and wind chills far colder. The Scenic Loop Drive in the South Unit may close partially due to snow. The North Unit road remains open but conditions can be challenging. The park is profoundly quiet, and wildlife -- particularly bison plowing through snowdrifts -- is dramatic against the winter landscape. Dress for extreme cold.

Where to Stay

Medora, North Dakota -- This small town at the South Unit entrance is the primary base for visitors. Medora has a summer-resort character, with several hotels, motels, cabins, and vacation rentals. The Rough Riders Hotel, named for Roosevelt's volunteer cavalry regiment, is a historic property on the main street. Summer attractions include the Medora Musical, an outdoor variety show, and the Chateau de Mores, a 26-room mansion built by a French nobleman in 1883.

Dickinson, North Dakota -- About 35 miles east of Medora on I-94, Dickinson offers a wider selection of chain hotels and restaurants. It is a practical alternative if Medora lodging is full.

Watford City, North Dakota -- The nearest town to the North Unit, approximately 15 miles south of the North Unit entrance. Watford City has hotels and restaurants that have expanded in recent years.

Cottonwood Campground (South Unit) -- A pleasant campground along the Little Missouri River with 76 sites ($14/night). Sites are first-come, first-served (some may be reservable through Recreation.gov seasonally). The campground has water and flush toilets. Cottonwood trees provide shade, and bison frequently wander through.

Juniper Campground (North Unit) -- A small, scenic campground with 50 sites ($14/night) overlooking the badlands. First-come, first-served. Flush toilets and water available seasonally.

Backcountry Camping -- Free backcountry permits are available at the visitor centers. Camping is allowed in designated areas throughout both units.

Getting There

By Air -- Dickinson Theodore Roosevelt Regional Airport (DIK), about 35 miles east of Medora, has limited commercial service. Bismarck Airport (BIS), approximately 130 miles east, and Williston Basin International Airport (XWA), approximately 60 miles northwest of the North Unit, offer more flight options. Most visitors drive.

By Car from Bismarck -- Take I-94 west approximately 130 miles to Exit 24 (Medora). The drive takes about 2 hours.

By Car from the East (Fargo/Minneapolis) -- Take I-94 west to Exit 24. From Fargo, the drive is approximately 260 miles and 4 hours. From Minneapolis, approximately 530 miles and 7.5 hours.

Between Units -- The South Unit (Medora) and North Unit (near Watford City) are separated by approximately 70 miles via US-85, a 1-hour drive through rolling ranch country.

Essential Tips

Entrance fees are $30 per vehicle for a 7-day pass. The America the Beautiful Annual Pass ($80) is accepted.

Wildlife is the star of the park. Bison, wild horses, pronghorn, bighorn sheep (North Unit), elk, and prairie dogs are all regularly seen. Drive slowly -- bison often stand in the road and will not move for your car. Maintain a distance of at least 25 yards from all wildlife and 100 yards from bison. Despite their placid appearance, bison are fast, unpredictable, and dangerous.

Wild horses are one of the park's unique features. The South Unit maintains a herd of 70-110 feral horses descended from ranch stock and possibly from horses brought by Spanish explorers. They are most often seen in the western portion of the Scenic Loop Drive and along the Paddock Creek area.

River crossings on backcountry trails (particularly the Achenbach Trail in the North Unit) can be dangerous during spring runoff or after heavy rain. Check conditions at the visitor center before attempting crossings.

Ticks are prevalent in spring and early summer. Check yourself thoroughly after hiking, especially in grassy areas.

Cell service is spotty in Medora and largely nonexistent in the park. Download maps before arriving.

Nearby Attractions

Medora -- The town itself is an attraction, with the Chateau de Mores State Historic Site (a frontier mansion), the North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame, and the Medora Musical, an outdoor musical variety show performed nightly during summer in a natural amphitheater.

Maah Daah Hey Trail -- This 144-mile long-distance trail connects the South and North Units of the park, traversing some of the most rugged and scenic terrain in the northern Great Plains. The trail is used for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. Day hikes on various segments are possible from several trailheads.

Elkhorn Ranch Unit -- Roosevelt's beloved main ranch site is the most remote unit of the park, reached via approximately 35 miles of gravel and dirt roads from Medora. There are no facilities -- just the ranch foundation stones and the river cottonwoods. The pilgrimage is rewarding for those interested in Roosevelt's story.

Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site -- About 150 miles east near Stanton, North Dakota, this site preserves the remnants of large Hidatsa earthlodge villages along the Knife River. This is where Lewis and Clark spent the winter of 1804-1805 and met Sakakawea (Sacagawea). A reconstructed earthlodge is open for visitors.