Black Canyon of the Gunnison Guide: Best Hikes, When to Visit & Where to Stay

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park in western Colorado protects 14 miles of the deepest, most dramatic section of a canyon carved over two million years by the Gunnison River. The name is literal -- the canyon walls are so steep and narrow that parts of the inner gorge receive only 33 minutes of direct sunlight per day, keeping the rock in near-permanent shadow. At its narrowest point, the canyon is only 40 feet wide at the river, while the rims above stand more than 2,700 feet apart. At its deepest, the Painted Wall -- Colorado's tallest cliff face -- drops 2,250 feet from rim to river, a sheer expanse of dark Precambrian gneiss and schist laced with pink pegmatite dikes that give the wall its name. The rock here is nearly two billion years old, among the oldest exposed rock in North America.

The park is small by national park standards, encompassing approximately 30,750 acres, but what it lacks in acreage it compensates for in vertical drama. Most visitors experience the canyon from the South Rim, which is developed with a road, overlooks, a visitor center, and campground. The North Rim is more remote, accessed by a gravel road, and offers a quieter experience with equally spectacular views. The inner canyon itself is a place for experienced technical climbers and scramblers only -- there are no maintained trails to the river, and the routes that do exist are steep, loose, and unmarked. The Gunnison River below is a Gold Medal trout fishery, and anglers who make the demanding descent are rewarded with exceptional fly fishing in a setting of profound isolation.

Best Hikes

Rim Rock Nature Trail -- This easy 1-mile round trip loop near the visitor center on the South Rim provides a gentle introduction to the park. The trail passes through scrub oak and serviceberry with interpretive signs explaining the geology and ecology. Several spur paths lead to canyon overlooks. Difficulty: easy. Allow 30-45 minutes.

Oak Flat Loop Trail -- The best trail on the South Rim for experiencing the canyon's depth, this 2-mile loop descends about 400 feet below the rim through a dense Gambel oak forest clinging to the canyon wall. The trail is steep in sections, with rocky footing and some exposure. Views into the inner canyon are dramatic, and the microclimate below the rim supports vegetation not found above. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 1.5-2 hours.

Warner Point Nature Trail -- Located at the end of the South Rim Road, this 1.5-mile round trip trail follows a narrow ridge to Warner Point, the highest overlook in the park at 8,300 feet. The panorama includes the canyon, the San Juan Mountains to the south, the West Elk Mountains to the north, and Uncompahgre Peak on clear days. Interpretive signs describe the ecology of the pinyon-juniper woodland. Difficulty: easy to moderate. Allow 1-1.5 hours.

North Vista Trail to Exclamation Point -- From the North Rim ranger station, this 3-mile round trip trail traverses pinyon-juniper woodland and sage meadows to Exclamation Point, an overlook with a striking view straight down into the narrowest part of the canyon. The elevation gain is modest, approximately 200 feet. The trail can be extended to Green Mountain (7 miles round trip, 800 feet of gain), which offers 360-degree views. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 2-3 hours for Exclamation Point, 4-5 hours for Green Mountain.

Gunnison Route (Inner Canyon) -- This is not a trail but a steep, unmaintained route dropping approximately 1,800 feet in one mile from the South Rim to the river. A free wilderness permit is required. The route involves loose rock, steep pitches, and sections requiring the use of hands. It is the most accessible inner canyon route and is used primarily by anglers targeting the Gold Medal trout water. Only experienced, fit hikers should attempt it. Difficulty: extremely strenuous. Allow 4-6 hours round trip.

Chasm View Nature Trail -- A short 0.3-mile round trip walk on the North Rim to one of the most dramatic overlooks in the park, where the canyon narrows to just 1,100 feet from rim to rim and drops 1,800 feet to the river. The view is vertigo-inducing. Difficulty: easy. Allow 20-30 minutes.

When to Visit

May-June -- Late spring is an excellent time to visit. The South Rim Road is fully open (it typically opens by mid-April), temperatures are pleasant (highs in the 60s to 70s at the rim), and wildflowers bloom in the scrub oak and meadows. The North Rim Road may not open until late May due to snow. Crowds are moderate.

July-August -- Summer brings warm temperatures (highs in the 80s at the rim) and afternoon thunderstorms that can produce dramatic lightning over the canyon. Mornings are typically clear and ideal for photography. Crowds are at their peak but still manageable compared to larger parks. The canyon's east-west orientation means early morning and late afternoon light reaches deepest into the inner gorge.

September-October -- Fall is arguably the best time. Crowds thin, temperatures cool to comfortable highs in the 60s and 70s, and the Gambel oaks along the canyon rim turn golden. Clear autumn days offer the best visibility for photographing the canyon's depth and the Painted Wall.

November-April -- Winter brings road closures. The South Rim Road is closed beyond the visitor center from around mid-November through mid-April, though the first few overlooks remain accessible. The North Rim Road closes entirely from November through April. The park is open for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing, and winter views of the snow-dusted canyon are spectacular for those willing to make the effort.

Where to Stay

Montrose, Colorado -- The nearest full-service town, approximately 15 miles west of the South Rim entrance. Montrose offers a range of hotels, motels, and vacation rentals, along with restaurants and outfitters. It is the most practical base for visiting the park.

Crawford, Colorado -- A small town near the North Rim entrance, Crawford offers limited but charming accommodations, including small inns and vacation rentals. Crawford State Park, with its reservoir, is nearby.

South Rim Campground -- The park's South Rim Campground has 88 sites, some available by reservation through Recreation.gov and some first-come, first-served. Sites cost $16 per night. The campground sits among pinyon and juniper at the canyon rim, and several sites have stunning views. Loops A and B are open year-round; Loop C is seasonal.

North Rim Campground -- A smaller, more primitive campground with 13 first-come, first-served sites ($16/night). It is typically open from mid-May through mid-October. The setting is quiet and remote.

East Portal Campground -- Located at the bottom of the steep East Portal Road, right along the Gunnison River, this small campground has 15 first-come, first-served sites ($16/night). Popular with anglers. The road down is steep (16% grade) and not recommended for large RVs or trailers.

Getting There

By Air -- Montrose Regional Airport (MTJ) is the nearest airport, approximately 15 miles from the South Rim entrance. The airport receives flights from Denver, Dallas, Houston, Chicago, and other cities, primarily via United and American. Gunnison-Crested Butte Regional Airport (GUC) is about 65 miles east.

By Car from Montrose -- Take US-50 east for about 8 miles, then turn north on Highway 347. The South Rim entrance is approximately 15 miles from Montrose and 20 minutes' drive.

By Car from Denver -- Take I-70 west to Grand Junction, then US-50 south and east through Montrose. The total distance is approximately 250 miles and takes about 4.5 hours. An alternate route via US-285 south and US-50 west through Gunnison is slightly longer but more scenic.

By Car to the North Rim -- From Crawford, take North Rim Road (a gravel road) approximately 11 miles to the North Rim ranger station. The road is unpaved and may be rough but is generally passable for passenger cars when dry.

Essential Tips

Entrance fees are $30 per vehicle for a 7-day pass. The America the Beautiful Annual Pass ($80) is accepted.

Stay back from the edge. The canyon rim is often unfenced, and the drops are immediate and fatal. The rock near the edge can be loose and crumbly. Keep children closely supervised and stay on established trails and overlooks.

Inner canyon routes require a free wilderness permit available at the visitor center or self-registration boards. These routes are not maintained trails -- they are steep, loose, and unmarked. Fallen rock, poison ivy, and rattlesnakes are hazards. Only experienced, self-sufficient hikers and climbers should enter the inner canyon.

Weather changes rapidly at the canyon rim (elevation 7,700-8,300 feet). Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, and lightning on the exposed rim is dangerous. Start hikes early and be prepared to seek shelter.

The East Portal Road descends 2,000 feet in 5 miles with a 16% grade. Vehicles longer than 22 feet are prohibited. The road provides access to the river, the East Portal campground, and the Crystal Dam.

Binoculars are highly recommended for spotting peregrine falcons, golden eagles, and other raptors that nest on the canyon walls.

Nearby Attractions

Curecanti National Recreation Area -- Extending east of the park along the Gunnison River, Curecanti encompasses three reservoirs (Blue Mesa, Morrow Point, and Crystal). Blue Mesa Reservoir is Colorado's largest body of water. Boat tours of Morrow Point Reservoir travel through a section of the Black Canyon that rivals the national park in scenery.

Colorado National Monument -- About 80 miles northwest near Grand Junction, this monument protects a series of red sandstone canyons and monoliths along the Uncompahgre Plateau. The Rim Rock Drive is one of the most scenic roads in the state.

Telluride -- The historic mining town and ski resort is approximately 65 miles south of Montrose via Highway 145. In summer, Telluride hosts music festivals and offers excellent hiking and mountain biking. The free gondola ride between Telluride and Mountain Village provides spectacular views.

San Juan Mountains -- The rugged San Juan range south of Black Canyon offers some of Colorado's most dramatic mountain scenery. The Million Dollar Highway (US-550) between Ouray and Silverton is a legendary alpine drive through narrow gorges and over high passes.