Big Bend Guide: Best Hikes, When to Visit & Where to Stay

Big Bend National Park occupies more than 801,000 acres of the Chihuahuan Desert in far west Texas, where the Rio Grande carves a series of spectacular limestone canyons along the U.S.-Mexico border. The park's name comes from the great bend the river makes as it swings southward around the Chisos Mountains, the only mountain range in the United States entirely contained within a national park. This is a place defined by extremes -- searing desert lowlands where temperatures exceed 110 degrees in summer, forested mountain peaks rising above 7,800 feet where black bears roam among oaks and pines, and deep river canyons where the only way in or out is by water. Big Bend is also defined by its remoteness. The nearest town of any size is Alpine, Texas, 100 miles to the northwest, and the park's isolation ensures dark skies, vast solitude, and a quiet so profound you can hear the wingbeats of a passing raven.

The park contains three distinct ecosystems layered by elevation. The river floodplain and desert lowlands (1,800-3,500 feet) are home to roadrunners, javelinas, and a remarkable diversity of cactus. The Chisos Mountains (5,000-7,832 feet) support a sky island of ponderosa pine, Douglas fir, Arizona cypress, and the Colima warbler -- a bird found nowhere else in the United States. Between them, the desert grasslands and foothills transition through sotol-lechuguilla shrubland into the mountain woodlands. More than 450 bird species have been documented in the park, making it one of the premier birding destinations in North America.

Best Hikes

Emory Peak Trail -- The highest point in Big Bend at 7,832 feet, Emory Peak is reached via a 10.5-mile round trip trail that begins at the Chisos Basin trailhead. The route follows the Pinnacles Trail through pine-oak woodland, ascending steadily with approximately 2,500 feet of elevation gain. The final push to the summit involves a short rock scramble. From the top, the views extend across the desert to the Sierra del Carmen in Mexico and the Davis Mountains to the north. Difficulty: strenuous. Allow 6-8 hours.

Santa Elena Canyon Trail -- This 1.7-mile round trip trail enters the mouth of Santa Elena Canyon, where 1,500-foot limestone walls tower above the Rio Grande. The trail begins with a short, steep climb over a ridge, then descends to the river level and follows a path along the canyon wall, ending at a gravel beach where the canyon narrows. The scale of the canyon is humbling. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 1-2 hours.

Lost Mine Trail -- Often cited as the best day hike in the park, this 4.8-mile round trip trail climbs 1,100 feet from a trailhead on the Basin Road to a ridgetop with panoramic views of Pine Canyon, Juniper Canyon, and the Sierra del Carmen. The trail is well-maintained with interpretive signs keyed to a pamphlet available at the trailhead. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 3-4 hours.

South Rim Trail -- A 12-to-14.5-mile loop (depending on route variations) that circles the high rim of the Chisos Mountains with views into Mexico, the desert floor, and the Rio Grande. The route combines portions of the Pinnacles Trail, Boot Canyon, and the Southeast or Northeast Rim trails. Boot Canyon shelters the park's most reliable water source and the rare Colima warbler in spring. Most hikers complete this as a long day hike or an overnight backpacking trip. Elevation gain is approximately 2,000 feet. Difficulty: strenuous. Allow 8-10 hours for a day hike.

Window Trail -- A 5.6-mile round trip trail descending from the Chisos Basin through a desert canyon to "the Window," a dramatic pour-off where Oak Creek drops through a narrow V-shaped gap in the rock with a view of the desert floor far below. The trail loses about 800 feet, meaning the return is entirely uphill. Difficulty: moderate. Allow 3-4 hours.

Hot Springs Trail -- A 1-mile round trip trail leading to historic stone ruins and a natural hot spring on the banks of the Rio Grande. The warm mineral water (approximately 105 degrees) fills a small stone-walled pool at the river's edge. The trail passes petroglyphs and the remains of a 1900s-era health resort. Difficulty: easy. Allow 1-2 hours (longer if you soak).

When to Visit

October-November -- Fall is the ideal time to visit Big Bend. Desert temperatures drop from their summer extremes to pleasant highs in the 70s and 80s in the lowlands and 60s in the mountains. The monsoon rains of late summer have greened the desert, and the river is often flowing well. Crowds are moderate.

December-February -- Winter brings cool, comfortable temperatures to the desert (highs in the 50s and 60s) and cold nights in the mountains (lows in the 20s and 30s). Snow is possible in the Chisos Mountains. Winter is an excellent time for desert hiking and birding, and the park is quiet. Some facilities reduce hours.

March-April -- Spring is the second most popular season. Cacti and wildflowers bloom spectacularly, sometimes covering the desert floor in color. Temperatures are warm but not yet extreme. The Colima warbler arrives in the Chisos Mountains in mid-April. Spring break crowds can be significant in late March.

May-September -- Summer in the Big Bend lowlands is brutally hot, with temperatures regularly exceeding 105 degrees and sometimes reaching 115. The Chisos Mountains are 15-20 degrees cooler and remain hikeable, but the desert trails become dangerously hot. Monsoon thunderstorms arrive in July and August, bringing dramatic lightning and flash flood risks. Only experienced desert travelers should visit during midsummer, and all hiking should be done at elevation or before dawn.

Where to Stay

Chisos Mountains Lodge -- The only lodging inside the park, situated in the Chisos Basin at about 5,400 feet elevation. The lodge offers motel-style rooms and stone cottages with views of the surrounding peaks. Rooms are comfortable but not luxurious. Rates run approximately $150-$200 per night. The lodge restaurant is the only dining option in the park. Book well in advance, especially for October through April.

Terlingua and Study Butte -- The small communities just west of the park entrance offer a growing collection of hotels, casitas, and vacation rentals. Terlingua is a former mercury mining ghost town with a lively atmosphere, excellent stargazing, and the Starlight Theatre restaurant and bar. Accommodations range from rustic to upscale.

Marathon, Texas -- About 70 miles north of the park, Marathon is home to the Gage Hotel, a beautifully restored 1927 hotel with a fine restaurant and a genuine West Texas atmosphere. It makes a worthwhile overnight stop on the drive to or from the park.

Camping -- The park has three developed campgrounds: Chisos Basin (60 sites, $16/night), Cottonwood (24 sites, $16/night, near Santa Elena Canyon), and Rio Grande Village (100 sites, $16/night, near the river). Chisos Basin is the most popular and fills quickly. Rio Grande Village also has a small RV park with hookups. Backcountry camping is available with a free permit from the visitor center.

Getting There

By Air -- Midland-Odessa International Airport (MAF) is the nearest major airport, approximately 230 miles and 3.5-4 hours from the park. El Paso International Airport (ELP) is about 330 miles and 5 hours away. There is no public transportation to the park.

By Car from Midland-Odessa -- Take I-20 west to Fort Stockton, then US-385 south through Marathon to the north entrance. The drive is approximately 230 miles and takes 3.5 to 4 hours.

By Car from El Paso -- Take I-10 east to Van Horn, then US-90 east to Marathon, then US-385 south. Alternatively, take Highway 118 south from Alpine through the scenic Davis Mountains. Total distance is approximately 330 miles.

By Car from Austin or San Antonio -- The drive is approximately 450-500 miles and takes 7-8 hours via I-10 west to Fort Stockton, then US-385 south. Big Bend is genuinely remote; plan accordingly.

Essential Tips

Entrance fees are $30 per vehicle for a 7-day pass. The America the Beautiful Annual Pass ($80) is accepted.

Water is the single most important thing in Big Bend. Carry a minimum of one gallon per person per day, and more for strenuous hiking. Dehydration and heat-related illness are the most common emergencies in the park. There are limited water sources, and you should never rely on backcountry water without treatment.

Fuel up before entering the park. There is a small gas station at Panther Junction and at Rio Grande Village, but prices are high and hours may be limited. Fill your tank in Marathon, Alpine, or Terlingua.

The nearest hospital is in Alpine, over 100 miles from some parts of the park. Cell service is essentially nonexistent within the park except for occasional signals on high ridges. Plan for self-sufficiency.

Flash floods can occur with little warning during monsoon season (July-September). Never camp in a wash or dry riverbed, and do not attempt to cross flooded roadways.

Border crossing into the Mexican village of Boquillas del Carmen is possible through a legal port of entry near Rio Grande Village. The crossing involves a rowboat ride or wading across the river and a short walk or burro ride. Bring your passport.

Nearby Attractions

Davis Mountains and McDonald Observatory -- About 100 miles northwest of Big Bend, the Davis Mountains offer cooler temperatures, scenic drives, and the McDonald Observatory, which hosts public star parties on Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. The dark skies here rival those in the park.

Marfa, Texas -- This small West Texas town has become an unlikely art world destination, anchored by the Chinati Foundation, a contemporary art museum housed in former military buildings with large-scale installations by Donald Judd and other artists. Marfa is also known for the mysterious Marfa Lights, unexplained atmospheric phenomena visible from a viewing platform east of town.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park -- About 250 miles northwest of Big Bend, Guadalupe Mountains protects the highest point in Texas (Guadalupe Peak, 8,751 feet) and a remarkable Permian-era fossil reef. The two parks can be combined into a West Texas road trip.

Terlingua Ghost Town -- Just outside the park, the ruins of the old Terlingua mercury mining operation make for an atmospheric stop. The annual Terlingua International Chili Championship, held each November, draws competitors and spectators from across the country.